Knitting in the Details Read online

  CHARMING DESIGNS TO KNIT & EMBELLISH

  Louisa Harding

  Acknowledgments

  ‘To understand your parents’ love bear your own children’

  This book is for my mother, Daphne, a constant source of strength, support, and unconditional love.

  As always I thank Stephen Jessup for wonderful photographs and for being my rock and our children, Belle and Oscar, thankfully, children change everything.

  This book would not be possible without the help of the following people; my wonderful knitters, Betty Rothwell, Betty Marsh, Daphne Harding, Mary Butler, Mrs. Wilmot, Debbie Humphreys, and Jenny Carter.

  I would like to thank the models, Joanna Stubbs, Aby Fox, and Sheri Staplehurst, as well as Liz Rochford for being such a wonderfully creative makeup and hair artist, and Guy Bishop, our photographer’s assistant.

  Finally, thank you to Tricia Waddell and Rebecca Campbell and the fantastic team of editors, book designers, and production people at Interweave for their support, understanding, and encouragement.

  Introduction

  Embroidery

  Amber

  Erin

  Opal

  Ruby

  Coral

  Flora

  Beading

  Verity

  Talullah

  Constance

  Clarissa

  Prudence

  Bettine

  Added Elements

  Matilda

  Esme

  Ella

  Gracie

  Tabitha

  Amelia

  In the Details

  Poppy

  Madeleine

  Nina

  Ivy

  April

  Marigold

  Glossary of Terms and Techniques

  Yarn Suppliers

  Introduction

  In my studio, I have an evergrowing collection of boxes, tins, baskets, and jars that contain my many treasures. Instead of rubies and diamonds, my riches include such things as an unruly tangle of ribbons that grows like an overflowing porridge pot in a children’s fairy tale.

  My desire to collect all things that sparkle or glisten is insatiable. I love anything that looks as if it has a hidden story, such as a vintage brooch at the thrift shop, a jar of old belt buckles in the dusty corner of my local haberdashery shop, and my mother’s jewelry boxes filled with broken trinkets. I am compelled to collect and surround myself with these castoffs, waiting for a flash of inspiration to give these once-loved items a continuing story.

  Not all my treasures are found objects, however. Some are quite new. During a trip to Paris a few years ago, I visited La Droguerie—a store devoted to buttons, beads, ribbons, feathers, and all sorts of enticing gems. I spent hours picking out velvet ribbon, a frenzy of feathers, and beautifully handcrafted artisan buttons. This store fueled my lust for embellishments with every one of the thousands of items displayed with love in glass jars and on wooden reels. Haberdashery shops are not always easy to find, hidden away like little gems, but they are always staffed with wonderful people knowledgeable about thousands of products.

  This book, Knitting in the Details, is the beginning of the story I want to tell about using beautiful embellishments for knitted projects. Knitting is a wonderfully creative pursuit that is both meditative and relaxing, and while there are many patterns and yarns for fantastic projects, I believe that a bit of personal history or added creativity enhances each piece. For me, embellishment is about adding buttons from an old shirt to the edging of a scarf or the charms from a broken bracelet to the flounce on a purse. It is about rediscovering techniques that my grandmother’s generation used to add decoration to their work—embroidery, beading, and appliqué—all skills that make a project unique. In our world of availability and mass production, it is comforting to revisit these techniques to make appealing projects.

  There is a Chinese proverb that says “Patience and the mulberry leaf make a silk purse.” Many of the knitted projects in this book are simple and quick to knit. The love is in the embellishment—taking the time to add a special detail, a finishing touch, a unique quality. This love prolongs the story and the history of each piece to create heirlooms of the future. I hope that the projects contained in these pages will inspire you to add your personal history into your own unique projects.

  Embroidery

  Embroidery is one of the most delightful methods of enhancing a knitted project. Amber, a cloche-style hat, has just a small amount of embroidery, whereas Opal, a striped purse, is heavily embellished with a combination of stitches. Lazy daisy embroidery and French knots add texture and color to Erin, a simple beret pattern. Ruby, a gift purse with ribbon ties knitted in two very different and contrasting yarns, is embellished with cross-stitches. Versatile duplicate stitch is used in very different ways in the Coral cardigan and Flora pullover, illustrating a couple of ways to use this stitch.

  Amber

  To strengthen the brims of these cloche-style hats, I worked them in a knitted woven-stitch pattern. To help them hold their shape, I threaded jewelry wire through the cast-on stitches; you can omit the wire if you prefer a floppy casual look. I embellished the band of the striped version and the left side of the solid version with lazy daisy stitches worked at different scales to create two completely different looks.

  FINISHED SIZE

  About 20¼" (51.5 cm) head circumference.

  YARN

  Worsted weight (#4 Medium).

  SHOWN HERE: Louisa Harding Kashmir Aran (55% wool, 10% cashmere, 35% microfiber; 83 yd [76 m]/50 g).

  Striped version: #39 Pansy (purple; A), 2 balls; #40 Cloud (light blue; B) and #38 Blush (pink; C), 1 ball each.

  Solid version: #12 Grey, 3 balls.

  Louisa Harding Sari Ribbon (90% nylon, 10% metallic, 66 yd [60 m]/50 g): #37 Twilight, small amounts for solid version only.

  NEEDLES

  Sides and crown: size U.S. 7 (4.5 mm).

  Brim: size U.S. 8 (5 mm).

  Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

  NOTIONS

  Tapestry needle; 31½" (80 cm) of 16-gauge silver-plated jewelry wire; oddments of yarn for embroidery for striped version.

  GAUGE

  18 stitches and 32 rows = 4" (10 cm) in seed stitch with smaller needles.

  Striped Version

  With A and larger needles, CO 121 sts. Knit 1 row.

  Brim

  INC ROW: (WS) K3, *M1 (see Glossary), k4; rep from * to last 2 sts, M1, k2—151 sts.

  ROW 1: (RS) *K1, sl 1 pwise with yarn in front (wyf), bring yarn to back; rep from * to last st, k1.

  ROW 2: Sl 1 pwise with yarn in back (wyb), bring yarn to front, *p1, sl 1 pwise wyb, bring yarn to front; rep from * to last 2 sts, k1, sl 1.

  Rep these 2 rows 7 more times, then work Row 1 once again and at the same time work the foll color sequence: *4 rows A, 4 rows B, 2 rows A, 2 rows C, 2 rows A; rep from *—piece measures about 1¾" (4.5 cm) from CO.

  DEC ROW: (WS) K1, *k2tog, k1, k2tog; rep from *—91 sts rem.

  Sides

  With B and smaller needles, work 2 rows in garter st (knit every row).

  With A, knit 1 RS row, then work seed st as foll:

  ROW 1: (WS) *K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.

  ROW 2: (RS) *K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.

  Rep these 2 rows 3 more times, then work Row 1 once more.

  Change to B and work 2 rows in garter st.

  Change to A and knit 1 RS row. Work 3 rows even in seed st. Cont in seed st and at the same time work the foll color sequence: *1 row B, 1 row C, 2 rows A, 1 row C, 1 row B, 4 rows A; rep from * once.

  Shape Crown

  ROW 1: (RS) *P7, p2tog; rep fr
om * to last st, p1—81 sts rem.

  ROWS 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, AND 14: Knit.

  Striped version.

  ROW 3: *P6, p2tog; rep from * to last st, p1—71 sts rem.

  ROW 5: *P5, p2tog; rep from * to last st, p1—61 sts rem.

  ROW 7: *P4, p2tog; rep from * to last st, p1—51 sts rem.

  ROW 9: *P3, p2tog; rep from * to last st, p1—41 sts rem.

  ROW 11: *P2, p2tog; rep from * to last st, p1—31 sts rem.

  ROW 13: *P1, p2tog; rep from * to last st, p1—21 sts rem.

  ROW 15: *P2tog; rep from * to last st, p1—11 sts rem.

  ROW 16: Knit.

  Cut yarn, leaving a 6" (15 cm) tail. Thread tail through rem sts, pull tight, and fasten off on WS.

  Solid Version

  With larger needles, CO 121 sts. Knit 1 row.

  Brim

  Work as for striped version, but omit color changes—91 sts rem.

  Sides

  Change to smaller needles and work 2 rows in garter st (knit every row). Work seed st as foll:

  ROW 1: (WS) *K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.

  ROW 2: (RS) *K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.

  Rep these 2 rows 3 more times, then work Row 1 once more. Work 3 rows in garter st, ending with a RS row. Work 21 rows in seed st as foll: *k1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.

  Shape Crown

  Shape Crown as for striped version.

  Finishing

  Weave in loose ends. Block to finished measurements.

  Embellishment

  Striped version: With B threaded on a tapestry needle and using the photograph as a guide, embroider 3-petal lazy daisies (see Lazy Daisy Stitch) on the top and bottom of the seed-stitch brim. With A, embroider 4-petal lazy daisies across the center of the band.

  Solid version: With ribbon yarn threaded on a tapestry needle and using the photograph as a guide, embroider different sizes of 5-petal lazy daisies (see Lazy Daisy Stitch) on the left side of the hat.

  Seam and Wire

  With yarn (A for striped version) threaded on a tapestry needle, use a mattress st or backstitch (see Glossary) to sew sides tog. Starting at the seam, thread the jewelry wire through the CO sts at base of brim. Twist the two ends of wire around each other to secure. With yarn (A for striped version) threaded on a tapestry needle, use whipstitches (see Glossary) to secure the wire in place.

  Erin

  This chic beret features an elegant mock cable edging and embroidered lazy daisies. Worked before the seam is sewn, the embroidery is worked in layers, one daisy on top of another. The center of each daisy is finished with a contrasting French knot. Use a variety of yarns you have in your stash or embroidery threads to experiment with different color combinations and placements until you’re satisfied with the look—be confident in your creativity.

  FINISHED SIZE

  About 19½" (49.5 cm) in circumference. To fit an average-size female.

  YARN

  Worsted weight (#4 Medium).

  SHOWN HERE: Louisa Harding Grace Silk and Wool (50% merino, 50% silk; 110 yd [101 m]/50 g): #23 Sloe (purple), 2 balls.

  NEEDLES

  Sides and crown: size U.S. 7 (4.5 mm).

  Edging: size U.S. 4 (3.5 mm).

  Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

  NOTIONS

  Tapestry needle; oddments of yarn for embroidery.

  GAUGE

  20 stitches and 28 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on larger needles.

  Stitch Guide

  Right Cross (RC; worked over 2 sts)

  K2tog but leave the sts on the left needle, knit the first st again, then slip both sts off the needle.

  Beret

  With smaller needles, work picot CO as folls: *Use the cable method (see Glossary) to CO 5 sts, BO 2 sts, slip st from right needle tip onto left needle tip (2 sts on left needle tip); rep from * 32 times, use the cable method to CO 2 more sts—98 sts. Work in mock cable rib as folls:

  ROW 1: (RS) K1, *p2, k2; rep from * to last st, k1.

  ROW 2: K1, *p2, k2; rep from * to last st, k1.

  ROW 3: K1, *p2, RC (see Stitch Guide); rep from * to last st, k1.

  ROW 4: K1, *p2, k2; rep from * to last st, k1.

  Rep these 4 rows 4 more times, ending with WS row.

  INC ROW: (RS) K1, M1 (see Glossary), *k3, M1; rep from * to last 4 sts, k2, M1, k2—131 sts.

  NEXT ROW: K1, purl to last st, k1.

  Change to larger needles and, beg with a knit row, work 24 rows in St st (knit RS rows; purl WS rows).

  DEC ROW 1: (RS) *K8, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1—118 sts rem.

  Work 7 rows even in St st.

  DEC ROW 2: *K7, K2tog; rep from * to last st, k1—105 sts rem.

  Work 3 rows even in St st.

  DEC ROW 3: *K6, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1—92 sts rem.

  Work 3 rows even in St st.

  DEC ROW 4: *K5, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1—79 sts rem.

  Work 3 rows even in St st.

  DEC ROW 5: *K4, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1—66 sts rem.

  Work 1 WS row even.

  DEC ROW 6: *K3, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1—53 sts rem.

  Work 1 WS row even.

  DEC ROW 7: *K2, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1—40 sts rem.

  Work 1 WS row even.

  DEC ROW 8: *K1, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1—27 sts rem.

  DEC ROW 9: (WS) P1, *p2tog; rep from *—14 sts rem.

  Break yarn, thread tail through rem sts, pull tight to close hole, and secure on WS.

  Finishing

  Weave in loose ends. Block to finished measurements.

  Embroidery

  With oddments of yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, embroider lazy daisies with 5 petals (see Lazy Daisy Stitch) randomly to beret front. With contrasting colors, work a French knot (see French knot) in the center of each daisy.

  With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, use a mattress st or backstitch (see Glossary) to sew seam.

  Opal

  This simple striped purse makes great use of stash yarn. The knitted fabric provides a blank canvas for you to embellish to your heart’s content. I have used the leftover yarns to work a combination of half and full lazy daisies, duplicate stitch, cross-stitch, chain stitch, and French knots. I have even added a chain-stitch flourish on each side of the heart. Choose whatever you have on hand to make the purse your own.

  FINISHED SIZE

  About 11¼" (28.5 cm) wide and 13½" (34.5 cm) long, excluding edging.

  YARN

  Aran weight (#4 Medium).

  SHOWN HERE: Harding Kashmir Aran (55% wool, 10% cashmere, 35% microfiber; 83 yd [76 m]/50 g): #38 Blush (A), 2 balls; #37 Pearl (off-white; B), #6 Grass Green (C), #36 Frost (gray-blue; D), and #42 Banana (yellow; E), 1 ball each.

  NEEDLES

  Sizes U.S. 7 and 8 (4.5 and 5 mm).

  Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

  NOTIONS

  Stitch holder; tapestry needle; one pair of 11" (28 cm) round-top bag handles.

  GAUGE

  18 stitches and 24 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on larger needles.

  Back

  With A and smaller needles, CO 51 sts. Beg with a RS row, work 10 rows in St st (knit RS rows; purl WS rows), ending with a WS row. Change to E and knit 2 rows (1 garter ridge on RS for fold line). Change to B and larger needles.

  ROWS 1, 3, 5, 7, AND 9: (RS) Knit.

  ROWS 2, 4, 6, AND 8: (WS) K3, p45, k3.

  ROW 10: With E, k3, p45, k3.

  ROWS 11–19: With A, work in patt as established.

  ROW 20: With E, rep Row 10.

  ROWS 21–29: With C, work in patt as established.

  ROW 30: With E, rep Row 10.

  Cont working all sts in St st and beg with a RS row, work 2 rows with B.

  INC ROW: (RS) With B, k3, M1 (see Glossary), knit to last 3 sts, M1, k3—2 sts inc’d.

  With B, work 6 rows even, ending with
a RS row. With E, work 1 WS row. With D, work 2 rows, then rep inc row—55 sts. With D, work 6 rows even, ending with a RS row. With E, work 1 WS row. With A, work 2 rows, then rep inc row—57 sts. With A, work 6 rows even, ending with a RS row. With E, work 1 WS row. With C, work 2 rows, then rep inc row—59 sts. With C, work 6 rows even, ending with a RS row. With E, work 1 WS row. With D, work 9 rows even, ending with a RS row. With E, work 2 rows, ending with RS row—piece measures about 15½" (39.5 cm) from CO. Place sts on holder.

  Front

  CO and work as for bag back.

  Finishing

  Place bag back and front on separate needles. Hold needles with WS facing tog and, with E, use the three-needle method (see Glossary) to BO the sts tog, forming a ridge (fold line) on the outside of the bag.

  Edging

  With E and smaller needles, CO 7 sts.

  With WS facing, knit 1 row. Rep Rows 1–4 of Edging chart until edging is same length as base of bag, ending with Row 4 of patt. BO all sts.

  Block to finished measurements.

  Embellishment

  Using the embellishment diagram as a guide (see page 31 for embroidery instructions), work duplicate st, cross st, chain st, lazy daisy st (with 2, 3, 4, or 5 petals as indicated), and French knots on the bag front.

  Assembly

  With WS tog, fold bag in half at bottom fold-line. With E threaded on a tapestry needle, use a whipstitch (see Glossary) to sew the straight edge of the edging to fold line. With WS facing tog, use the mattress st (see Glossary) to sew front and back tog from fold line to start of garter-st edging. Rep for seam on other side.