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Knitting in the Details Page 4


  Edging

  CO 15 sts.

  FOUNDATION ROW 1: (RS) Knit.

  FOUNDATION ROW 2: K2, p11, k2.

  Work Rows 1–16 of Lace and Bead chart 6 times—piece measures about 13¾" (35 cm) from CO.

  Sleeve Body

  Turn edging 45 degrees clockwise so that the left-hand selvedge is at the top. With RS facing and yarn still attached, pick up and knit 61 (61, 65, 65, 69, 69) sts along the top of edging. Beg with WS row, work 9 rows in St st, ending with a WS row.

  Shape Cap

  BO 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7) sts at beg of next 2 rows—51 (51, 53, 53, 55, 55) sts rem.

  DEC ROW 1: (RS) K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, ssk—2 sts dec’d.

  DEC ROW 2: (WS) Ssp (see Glossary), purl to last 2 sts, p2tog—2 sts dec’d.

  Rep the last 2 rows once more—43 (43, 45, 45, 47, 47) sts rem.

  [Rep Dec Row 1, work 1 WS row even] 2 times, rep Dec Row 1 once again—37 (37, 39, 39, 41, 41) sts rem.

  [Work 3 rows even, ending with a WS row. Rep Dec Row 1] 4 times—29 (29, 31, 31, 33, 33) sts rem.

  [Work 1 WS row even, work Dec Row 1] 3 times—23 (23, 25, 25, 27, 27) sts rem.

  BO 3 sts beg of next 4 rows—11 (11, 13, 13, 15, 15) sts rem. BO all sts.

  Finishing

  Block pieces to finished measurements. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle and using a backstitch (see Glossary) sew fronts to back at shoulders. Use a mattress st (see Glossary) to sew side seams.

  Body Edging

  Thread appropriate number of beads onto working yarn (see Notes). CO 15 sts.

  FOUNDATION ROW 1: Knit.

  FOUNDATION ROW 2: K2, p11, k2.

  Rep Rows 1–16 of Lace and Bead chart until piece is long enough to fit around center edge of bolero, beg at right side seam, up around right front, across back neck, down left front to left side seam, and across bottom edge of back, ending with a RS row. With WS facing, BO all sts knitwise.

  With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, whipstitch (see Glossary) edging in place, easing as necessary around curves.

  Sew sleeve seams. Sew sleeve caps into armholes, easing as necessary. Weave in loose ends.

  Constance

  A row of beaded hearts provides stability and elegant sparkle to the brim of this feminine beret. If you’ve never before incorporated beads in your knitting, this beret is a great place to start. The pattern is simple to follow and the project is small enough to finish in just a few hours. Knit one for someone close to your heart.

  FINISHED SIZE

  About 20" (51 cm) head circumference, stretched.

  To fit an average-size female.

  YARN

  Worsted weight (#4 Medium).

  SHOWN HERE: Louisa Harding Thistle (60% merino, 40% suri alpaca; 98 yd [90 m]/50 g): #16 Surf, 2 balls.

  NEEDLES

  Sides and brim: size U.S. 8 (5 mm).

  Edging: size U.S. 6 (4 mm).

  Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

  NOTIONS

  Beading needle; 442 size 6° silver-lined clear beads; tapestry needle.

  GAUGE

  18 stitches and 24 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on larger needles.

  Stitch Guide

  Bead 1 (worked on RS rows)

  With RS facing, bring yarn to front (RS of work) slide a bead next to the st just worked, sl 1 pwise, bring yarn to back (WS of work), leaving bead in front of slipped st. The bead will be secured when the next st is knitted.

  Note

  Before beginning, thread the knitting yarn on a beading needle, then thread the desired number of beads onto the yarn.

  Beret

  With smaller needles, CO 93 sts. Work beaded rib as foll:

  ROW 1: (RS) *K2, p1, k1, bead 1 (see Stitch Guide), k1, p1; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

  ROW 2: (WS) K1, *p1, k1, p3, k1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.

  Rep these 2 rows 9 more times, ending with a WS row.

  INC ROW: (RS) [K1, M1 (see Glossary)] 2 times, [k5, (M1, k1) 2 times, M1] 12 times, k5, M1, k2—132 sts.

  NEXT ROW: (WS) K1, purl to last st, k1.

  Change to larger needles. Work Rows 1–16 of Beaded Heart chart—piece measures about 4½" (11.5 cm) from CO.

  Shape Top

  DEC ROW 1: (RS) K1, *ssk, k6, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1—106 sts rem.

  Knitting the first and last st of every row, work 7 rows even in St st (knit RS rows; purl WS rows).

  BEADED HEART CHART

  DEC ROW 2: K1, *ssk, k4, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1—80 sts rem.

  Knitting the first and last st of every row, work 3 rows even in St st.

  DEC ROW 3: K1, *ssk, k2, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1—54 sts rem.

  Knitting the first and last st of every row, work 3 rows even in St st.

  DEC ROW 4: K1, *ssk, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1—28 sts rem.

  NEXT ROW: (WS) K1, purl to last st, k1.

  DEC ROW 5: K1, *ssk; rep from * to last st, k1—15 sts rem.

  NEXT ROW: K1, purl to last st, k1.

  Cut yarn leaving a 6" (15 cm) tail, thread through rem sts, pull tight, and fasten off to WS.

  Finishing

  Weave in loose ends. Block to finished measurements. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, use a mattress st or backstitch (see Glossary) to sew edges tog, working the garter selvedge st into the seam allowance.

  Clarissa

  Nothing speaks elegance and sophistication like a simple beaded scarf. For fun, I’ve shown this design worked in two different yarns—one in Merletto, a blend of viscose, nylon, and linen, and the other in Mulberry Silk (see Ruby purse), a pure silk yarn. I chose muted frosted beads on one scarf to lend a subtle weight and drape and silver-lined beads on the other to catch the light and the attention of onlookers.

  FINISHED SIZE

  Merletto version: about 11½" (29 cm) wide and 39½" (100.5 cm) long.

  Mulberry Silk version: about 10" (25.5 cm) wide and 72½" (184 cm) long.

  YARN

  DK weight (#3 Light).

  SHOWN HERE: Louisa Harding Merletto (46% viscose, 34% nylon, 20% linen; 98 yd [90 m]/50 g): #17 True (navy), 4 balls.

  Louisa Harding Mulberry Silk (100% silk; 136 yd [124 m]/50 g): #32 Lapis (purple), 5 balls.

  NEEDLES

  Body: size U.S. 7 (4.5 mm).

  Edging: size U.S. 6 (4 mm).

  Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

  NOTIONS

  874 size 6° frosted blue glass beads for Merletto scarf; 1,714 size 6° silver-lined clear glass beads for Mulberry Silk scarf; beading needle; tapestry needle.

  GAUGE

  Merletto version: 18 stitches and 24 rows = 4" (10 cm) in lace pattern on larger needles.

  Mulberry Silk version: 20 stitches and 28 rows = 4" (10 cm) in lace pattern on larger needles.

  Merletto version.

  Stitch Guide

  Bead 1 (worked on RS rows)

  With RS facing, bring yarn to front (RS of work) slide a bead next to the st just worked, sl 1 pwise, bring yarn to back (WS of work), leaving bead in front of slipped st. The bead will be secured when the next st is knitted.

  Notes

  Before beginning, thread the knitting yarn on a beading needle, then thread the desired number of beads onto the yarn.

  Each pattern repeat uses 105 beads. Thread enough beads for two pattern repeats so that the yarn can move freely through the beads. At the end of the two repeats, cut the yarn and thread enough beads for two more repeats. Weave in the loose ends when finishing the scarf.

  BEADED DIAMONDS CHART

  Download the chart for this project here.

  Scarf

  With smaller needles, work beaded picot CO as folls: *Use the cable method (see Glossary) to CO 5 sts, slide a bead up to work, BO 2 sts, return st on right-hand needle to left-hand needle (3 sts on left-hand needle); rep from * 16 more times, use the cable method to CO 2 more sts—53 sts total. Work 4 rows in
garter st (knit every row).

  Change to larger needles. Work Rows 1–32 of Beaded Diamonds chart 8 times for Merletto scarf and 16 times for Mulberry Silk scarf. Change to smaller needle and work 4 rows in garter st, ending with a WS row.

  With RS facing, work beaded picot BO as folls: *sl st on right-hand needle onto left-hand needle, use the cable method to CO 2 sts, slide bead up to work, BO 5 sts; rep from * 17 more times, BO to end.

  Finishing

  Weave in loose ends. Block to finished measurements.

  Prudence

  These fingerless mittens are fast and fun to knit with beads in the cast-on and bind-off edges. The combination of bronze beads and the green yarn reminds me of verdigris, the green coating or patina formed when copper, brass, or bronze is weathered. The simple embellished edging detail is probably the easiest way to learn bead knitting.

  FINISHED SIZE

  About 8" (20.5 cm) hand circumference.

  YARN

  DK weight (#3 Light).

  SHOWN HERE: Louisa Harding Kashmir DK (55% merino, 35% microfiber, 10% cashmere; 116 yd [106 m]/50 g): #35 Spruce, 2 balls.

  NEEDLES

  Hand: size U.S. 6 (4 mm).

  Edging: size U.S. 3 (3.25 mm).

  Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

  NOTIONS

  Beading needle; 284 size 6° bronze beads; stitch holder; tapestry needle.

  GAUGE

  22 stitches and 30 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on larger needles.

  Stitch Guide

  Bead 1

  On RS rows: Bring yarn to front (RS of work) slide a bead next to the st just worked, sl 1 pwise, bring yarn to back (WS of work), leaving bead in front of slipped st. The bead will be secured when the next st is worked.

  On WS rows: Bring yarn to back (RS of work) slide a bead next to the st just worked, sl 1 pwise, bring yarn to front (WS of work), leaving bead in front of slipped st. The bead will be secured when the next st is worked.

  Note

  Before beginning, thread the knitting yarn on a beading needle, then thread the desired number of beads onto the yarn—each mitten requires 142 beads.

  Right Mitten

  With smaller needles, work beaded picot CO as folls: *Use the cable method (see Glossary) to CO 5 sts, slide a bead up to work, BO 2 sts, sl st on right-hand needle to left-hand needle (3 sts on left-hand needle); rep from * 12 more times (39 sts on needle), use the cable method to CO 2 more sts—41 sts total.

  Cuff

  Work 3 rows in garter st (knit every row).

  BEAD ROW: (WS) K1, p1, *bead 1 (see Stitch Guide), p1; rep from * last st, k1.

  Knit 1 RS row.

  INC ROW: (WS) K1, M1 (see Glossary), knit to end—42 sts.

  Work Rows 1–4 of Rib chart 5 times, then work Rows 1 and 2 once more—piece measures about 3" (7.5 cm) from CO.

  Hand

  Change to larger needles. Work Rows 1–10 of Hand chart.

  Shape Thumb

  ROW 1: (RS) K21, M1, p7, M1, k14—44 sts.

  ROWS 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, AND 12: (WS) K1, purl to last st, k1.

  ROWS 3 AND 5: Knit.

  ROW 7: K21, M1, p9, M1, k14—46 sts.

  ROW 9: K21, M1, p11, M1, k14—48 sts.

  ROW 11: K22, sl next 11 sts on a holder to work later for thumb, knit to end—37 sts rem.

  ROW 13: Knit.

  ROW 14: K1, purl to last st, k1.

  Rep the last 2 rows 8 more times, ending with a WS row.

  Change to smaller needles. Work 3 rows even in garter st.

  BEAD ROW: (WS) K1, p1 *bead 1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.

  Work 3 rows even in garter st, ending with a RS row.

  With WS facing, use the beaded picot method to BO as foll: BO 3 sts, *sl st on right-hand needle onto left-hand needle, use the cable method to CO 2 sts, slide bead up to work, BO 5 sts; rep from * 10 more times.

  Thumb

  Return 11 held thumb sts to larger needles and rejoin yarn with RS facing.

  INC ROW: (WS) Purl into front and back of next st (p1f&b), p9, p1f&b—13 sts.

  Work 4 rows even in St st, ending with a WS row.

  Change to smaller needles. Work 3 rows even in garter st, ending with a RS row.

  RIB CHART

  HAND CHART

  BEAD ROW: (WS) P1, *bead 1, p1; rep from *.

  Knit 1 RS row. With WS facing, BO all sts kwise.

  Left Mitten

  CO and work as for right mitten to start of thumb shaping.

  Shape Thumb

  ROW 1: K14, M1, p7, M1, k21—44 sts.

  ROWS 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, AND 12: (WS) K1, purl to last st, k1.

  ROWS 3 AND 7: Knit.

  ROW 5: K14, M1, p9, M1, k21—46 sts.

  ROW 9: K14, M1, p11, M1, K21—48 sts.

  ROW 11: K15, sl next 11 sts on a holder for thumb, knit to end—37 sts rem.

  ROW 13: Knit.

  ROW 14: K1, purl to last st, k1.

  Rep the last 2 rows 8 more times, ending with a WS row.

  Cont as for right mitten.

  Thumb

  Work as for right mitten.

  Finishing

  Weave in loose ends. Block to finished measurements. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, use a mattress st or backstitch (see Glossary) to sew side seams, working each selvedge st into the seam. Sew thumb seam, making sure that the base of the thumb is joined securely to the hand.

  Bettine

  The shrug is the most versatile of knitted garments—it can be worn over most any outfit to provide a bit of warmth and style. Because shrugs have little shaping and knit up quickly, they are easy enough for even beginning knitters. To add simple elegance to this design, I intertwined pretty beads in the lace pattern. Wear this shrug with anything from jeans and a T-shirt to a pretty summer dress.

  FINISHED SIZE

  About 34 (36½, 39, 41, 43½, 46)" (86.5 [92.5, 99, 104, 110.5, 117] cm) shoulder circumference. Shrug shown measures 34" (86.5 cm).

  Note: To measure circumference, place measuring tape at nape of neck, bring it to the front over one shoulder, then wrap it below the underarm to the back, bring it across the back below the underarm to the front, then up over the shoulder to the nape of the neck.

  YARN

  Worsted weight (#4 Medium).

  SHOWN HERE: Louisa Harding Grace (50% merino, 50% silk; 110 yd [101 m]/50 g): #20 Whale, 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6) balls.

  NEEDLES

  Body: size U.S. 7 (4.5 mm).

  Edging: size U.S. 4 (3.5 mm).

  Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

  NOTIONS

  Beading needle; markers (m); tapestry needle; 524 (557, 590, 701, 738, 775) size 6º metallic green beads.

  GAUGE

  20 stitches and 32 rows = 4" (10 cm) in eyelet pattern on larger needles.

  Stitch Guide

  Bead 1 (worked on WS rows)

  With WS facing, bring yarn to back (RS of work) slide a bead next to the st just worked, sl 1 pwise, bring yarn to front (WS of work), leaving bead in front of slipped st. The bead will be secured when the next st is knitted.

  Note

  Before beginning, thread the knitting yarn on a beading needle, then thread the desired number of beads onto the yarn.

  Shrug

  With smaller needles and using the cable method (see Glossary), CO 18 sts, then work beaded picot CO as foll: *use the cable method to CO 5 sts, slide a bead up to work, BO 2 sts, return st on right-hand needle to left-hand needle; rep from * 27 (29, 31, 33, 35, 37) more times, use the cable method to CO 19 more sts—121 (127, 133, 139, 145, 151) sts. Work 3 rows in garter st (knit every row).

  BEAD ROW: (WS) K18, place marker (pm), [p1, bead 1 (see Stitch Guide)] 42 (45, 48, 51, 54, 57) times, p1, pm, k18.

  NEXT 2 ROWS: K18, slip marker (sl m), knit to next m, sl m, k18.

  Change to larger needle. Work 8 rows in eyelet patt as foll (the pattern is charted on page 67):

  ROW 1: (RS) Slide a
bead up to start of work, k3, yo, k4, yo, k2tog, k9, sl m, k1, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1; rep from * to next m, sl m, k10, yo, k2tog, k3, yo, k3—123 (129, 135, 141, 147, 153) sts.

  ROW 2: (WS) Slide a bead up to start of work, k8, yo, k2tog, k9, sl m, purl to next m, sl m, k10, yo, k2tog, k7.

  BEADED LACE CHART

  Download the chart for this project here.

  ROW 3: Slide a bead up to start of work, k3, yo, k1, yo, k4, yo, k2tog, k9, sl m, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, *sl 1, k2tog, psso, yo, k3, yo; rep from * to 2 sts before next m, ssk, sl m, k10, yo, k2tog, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3—127 (133, 139, 145, 151, 157) sts.

  ROW 4: Slide a bead up to start of work, k10, yo, k2tog, k9, sl m, p3, *bead 1, p5; rep from * to 4 sts before next m, bead 1, p3, sl m, k10, yo, k2tog, k9.

  ROW 5: Slide a bead up to start of work, k5, yo, k1, yo, k4, yo, k2tog, k9, sl m, k1, *yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * to next m, sl m, k10, yo, k2tog, k3, yo, k1, yo, k5—131 (137, 143, 149, 155, 161) sts.

  ROW 6: Slide a bead up to start of work, k12, yo, k2tog, k9, sl m, purl to next m, sl m, k10, yo, k2tog, k11.

  ROW 7: Slide a bead up to start of work, BO 5 sts (1 st on right-hand needle), k6, yo, k2tog, k9, sl m, k2, yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yo, *k3, yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yo; rep from * to 2 sts before m, k2, sl m, k10, yo, k2tog, k11—126 (132, 138, 144, 150, 156) sts rem.