Knitting in the Details Read online

  ROW 1: (RS) K9, [k1, yo, k2tog, k16] 8 (9, 10) times, k1, yo, k2tog, k9.

  ROW 2: K1, p8, [k1, yo, k2tog, p16] 8 (9, 10) times, k1, yo, k2tog, p8, k1.

  Rep these 2 rows 14 more times, ending with a WS row—piece measures about 5" (12.5 cm) from CO.

  DEC ROW 1: (RS) K7, k2tog, [k1, yo, k2tog, ssk, k12, k2tog] 8 (9, 10) times, k1, yo, k2tog, ssk, k7—155 (172, 189) sts rem.

  NEXT ROW: (WS) K1, p7, [k1, yo, k2tog, p14] 8 (9, 10) times, k1, yo, k2tog, p7, k1.

  NEXT ROW: K8, [k1, yo, k2tog, k14] 8 (9, 10) times, k1, yo, k2tog, k8.

  Rep the last 2 rows 7 more times, then work the WS row once more—piece measures about 7¾" (19.5 cm) from CO.

  DEC ROW 2: (RS) K6, k2tog, [k1, yo, k2tog, ssk, k10, k2tog] 8 (9, 10) times, k1, yo, k2tog, ssk, k6—137 (152, 167) sts rem.

  NEXT ROW: (WS) K1, p6, [k1, yo, k2tog, p12] 8 (9, 10) times, k1, yo, k2tog, p6, k1.

  NEXT ROW: K7, [k1, yo, k2tog, k12] 8 (9, 10) times, k1, yo, k2tog, k7.

  Rep the last 2 rows 7 more times, then work the WS row once more—piece measures about 10¼" (26 cm) from CO.

  DEC ROW 3: (RS) K5, k2tog, [k1, yo, k2tog, ssk, k8, k2tog] 8 (9, 10) times, k1, yo, k2tog, ssk, k5—119 (132, 145) sts rem.

  NEXT ROW: K1, p5, [k1, yo, k2tog, p10] 8 (9, 10) times, k1, yo, k2tog, p5, k1.

  NEXT ROW: K6, [k1, yo, k2tog, k10] 8 (9, 10) times, k1, yo, k2tog, k6.

  Rep the last 2 rows 7 more times, then work the WS row once more—piece measures about 13" (33 cm) from CO.

  DEC ROW 4: (RS) K4, k2tog, [k1, yo, k2tog, ssk, k6, k2tog] 8 (9, 10) times, k1, yo, k2tog, ssk, k4—101 (112, 123) sts rem.

  NEXT ROW: K1, p4, [k1, yo, k2tog, p8] 8 (9, 10) times, k1, yo, k2tog, p4, k1.

  NEXT ROW: K5, [k1, yo, k2tog, k8] 8 (9, 10) times, k1, yo, k2tog, k5.

  Rep the last 2 rows 7 more times, then work the WS row once more—piece measures about 15½" (39.5 cm) from CO.

  DEC ROW 5: (RS) K3, k2tog, [k1, yo, k2tog, ssk, k4, k2tog] 8 (9, 10) times, k1, yo, k2tog, ssk, k3—83 (92, 101) sts rem.

  NEXT ROW: K1, p3, [k1, yo, k2tog, p6] 8 (9, 10) times, k1, yo, k2tog, p3, k1.

  NEXT ROW: K4, [k1, yo, k2tog, k6] 8 (9, 10) times, k1, yo, k2tog, k4.

  Rep the last 2 rows 7 more times, then work the WS row once more—piece measures about 18¼" (46.5 cm) from CO.

  Shape Armholes

  Keeping in patt, BO 4 (4, 6) sts at beg of next 2 rows, then BO 3 (4, 4) sts at beg of foll 2 rows—69 (76, 81) sts rem.

  DEC ROW: (RS) K2tog, work in patt to last 2 sts, ssk—2 sts dec’d.

  Work 1 WS row even. Rep the last 2 rows 3 (4, 4) more times—61 (66, 71) sts rem. Work even in patt until armholes measure 6¼ (6¾, 7)" (16 [17, 18] cm), ending with a WS row. Change to smaller needles. Work 5 rows even in garter st.

  EYELET ROW: (WS) P2, *yo, p2tog; rep from * to last 1 (2, 1) st(s), p1 (2, 1).

  Work 3 rows in garter st, ending with a RS row. With WS facing, use the picot method to BO as foll: BO 11 (14, 16) sts, *sl st on right-hand needle back onto left-hand needle, use the backward-loop method (see Glossary) to CO 2 sts, BO 5 sts; rep from * 14 more times, BO rem 8 (10, 13) sts.

  Front

  CO and work as for back.

  Finishing

  Block pieces to finished measurements. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, sew front to back at shoulders, leaving center picot edging sts open for neck. Weave in loose ends.

  Armhole Edging

  With smaller needles and RS facing, pick up and knit 37 (40, 43) sts evenly spaced to shoulder seam and 37 (40, 43) sts evenly spaced to side seam—74 (80, 86) sts total. Work 2 rows in garter st. With WS facing, BO all sts knitwise. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, sew armhole edging and side seams.

  Embellishment

  Pin each velvet appliqué as desired. With sharp-point sewing needle and matching thread, use whipstitches (see Glossary) to secure the entire perimeter of each appliqué.

  Tabitha

  A large chunky cable creates a visual statement at the edging of this cabled cape and provides a nice base on which to attach fringe. Because fringe creates the illusion of adding length, it is a great way to disguise a project that is a little too short. Adding beads to the fringe for extra weight and drape or work the fringe in a contrasting color or fiber to add color and texture.

  FINISHED SIZE

  About 47" (119.5 cm) circumference at hem, 30" (76 cm) circumference at shoulder, and 13¾" (35 cm) long, excluding fringe.

  YARN

  Worsted weight (#4 Medium).

  SHOWN HERE: Louisa Harding Thistle (60% merino, 40% suri alpaca; 98 yd [90 m]/50 g): #9 Ginger, 5 balls.

  NEEDLES

  Size U.S. 8 (5 mm): straight and 24" (60 cm) circular (cir).

  Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

  NOTIONS

  Cable needle (cn); marker (m); tapestry needle; size G/6 (4.5 mm) crochet hook.

  GAUGE

  16 stitches and 24 rows = 4" (10 cm) in garter stitch for cable edging; 18-st repeat at lower edge of yoke measures 3½" (9 cm) wide.

  Stitch Guide

  10/10RC

  Sl 10 sts onto cn and hold in back, k10, k10 from cn.

  3/3LC

  Sl 3 sts onto cn and hold in front; k3, k3 from cn.

  3/3RC

  Sl 3 sts onto cn and hold in back, k3, k3 from cn.

  2/2LC

  Sl 2 sts onto cn and hold in front, k2, k2 from cn.

  2/2RC

  Sl 2 sts onto cn and hold in back, k2, k2 from cn.

  1/1LC

  Sl 1 st onto cn and hold in front, k1, k1 from cn.

  1/1RC

  Sl 1 st onto cn and hold in back, k1, k1 from cn.

  Cape

  Cable Edging

  With straight needles, CO 24 sts. Beg with a RS row, work 2 rows in St st (knit RS rows; purl WS rows).

  INC ROW: (RS) K4, yo, k2tog, k6, [M1 (see Glossary), k2] 6 times—30 sts.

  NEXT ROW: K1, p8, k2, p8, k6, yo, k2tog, k3.

  Work Rows 1–24 of Cable Edging chart 11 times, then work Rows 1–18 once more—piece measures about 47" (119.5 cm) from CO.

  CABLE EDGING CHART

  YOKE CHART

  DEC ROW: (RS) K4, yo, k2tog, k6, [k2tog, k1] 6 times—24 sts rem.

  Purl 1 WS row. With RS facing, BO all sts.

  With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, use a mattress st (see Glossary) to join CO and BO edges tog to form a ring, being careful not to twist into a helix.

  Yoke

  Turn edging 45 degrees counterclockwise so that the straight garter-st edge is at the top of the work.

  With cir needle, RS facing, and starting at seam of edging ring, pick up and knit 216 sts evenly spaced around straight edge of ring. Place marker (pm) and join for working in rnds. Work Rnds 1–44 of Yoke chart—120 sts rem; piece measures about 7¾" (19.5 cm) from pick-up rnd.

  Purl 1 rnd, then knit 1 rnd. Turn work and with WS facing, BO all sts kwise.

  Finishing

  Weave in loose ends. Block to finished measurements.

  Fringe

  Cut 160 lengths of yarn, each about 9" (23 cm) long. To attach fringe, fold one length in half and use a crochet hook to draw the fold end through the edge st of the cable edging, pull the loose ends through the loop, and pull firmly to secure. Rep for the rem lengths, spacing them evenly around the cable edge.

  Amelia

  This delicate cardigan is reminiscent of those that 1940s film stars draped around their shoulders to keep cool evening breezes at bay. A bouquet of knitted rosettes at the left front neck, secured by large mother-of-pearl buttons, provides a chic corsage that is forever fresh. The front is closed with buttons that fasten through discreet loops worked as part of the edging bind-off.

  FINISHED SIZE

  About 32¾ (34¾, 37, 39, 41½, 43½)" (83 [88.5, 94, 99, 105.5, 110.5] cm) bust circumference, allowing about 1" to 2" (2.5 to 5 cm) of ease. Sweater shown measures 32¾" (83 cm).

  YA
RN

  Chunky weight (#5 Bulky).

  SHOWN HERE: Louisa Harding Rossetti (67% merino wool, 28% silk, 5% polyamide; 76 yd [70 m]/50 g): #5 Ember, 7 (8, 8, 9, 9, 10) balls.

  NEEDLES

  Body and sleeves: size U.S. 10 (6 mm). Edging: size U.S. 8 (5 mm).

  Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

  NOTIONS

  Tapestry needle; nine ½" (1.3 cm) and three ¾" (2 cm) mother-of-pearl buttons.

  GAUGE

  15 stitches and 20 rows = 4"

  (10 cm) in St st on larger needles.

  Back

  With smaller needles, CO 51 (55, 59, 63, 67, 71) sts. Work 4 rows in garter st (knit every row). Change to larger needles. Beg with a RS row, work 8 rows in St st (knit RS rows; purl WS rows).

  INC ROW: (RS) K3, M1 (see Glossary), knit to last 3 sts, M1, k3—2 sts inc’d.

  Work 7 rows even in St st. Rep the last 8 rows 3 more times—59 (63, 67, 71, 75, 79) sts. Work even until piece measures 11 (11, 11½, 11½, 12¼, 12¼)" (28 [28, 29, 29, 31, 31] cm from CO, ending with a WS row.

  Shape Armholes

  BO 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6) sts at beg of next 2 rows, then BO 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3) sts at beg of foll 2 rows—49 (51, 53, 55, 59, 61) sts rem.

  DEC ROW: (RS) K3, k2tog, knit to last 5 sts, ssk, k3—2 sts dec’d.

  Purl 1 WS row. Rep the last 2 rows 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3) more time(s)—45 (47, 47, 49, 51, 53) sts rem. Work even in St st until armholes measure 7 (7, 7½, 7½, 8, 8)" (18 [18, 19, 19, 20.5, 20.5] cm), ending with a WS row.

  Shape Shoulders and Neck

  BO 4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5) sts at beg of next 2 rows—37 (39, 39, 41, 41, 43) sts rem.

  NEXT ROW: (RS) BO 4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5) sts, knit until there are 6 (7, 7, 8, 7, 8) sts on right-hand needle, turn work—rem 27 (28, 28, 29, 29, 30) sts will be worked later.

  Right Shoulder

  Working 6 (7, 7, 8, 7, 8) right shoulder sts only, with WS facing, BO 3 sts, purl to end—3 (4, 4, 5, 4, 5) sts rem. BO all sts.

  Left Shoulder

  With RS facing, rejoin yarn to 27 (28, 28, 29, 29, 30) live sts, BO center 17 sts for back neck, knit to end—10 (11, 11, 12, 12, 13) sts rem.

  NEXT ROW: (WS) BO 4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5) sts, purl to end—6 (7, 7, 8, 7, 8) sts rem. At beg of next RS row, BO 3 sts, knit to end—3 (4, 4, 5, 4, 5) sts rem. BO rem sts.

  Left Front

  With smaller needles, CO 26 (28, 30, 32, 34, 36) sts. Work 4 rows in garter st. Change to larger needles. Beg with a RS row, work 8 rows in St st.

  INC ROW: (RS) K3, M1, knit to end—1 st inc’d.

  Work 7 rows even in St st. Rep the last 8 rows 3 more times—30 (32, 34, 36, 38, 40) sts. Work even until piece measures 11 (11, 11½, 11½, 12¼, 12¼)" (28 [28, 29, 29, 31, 31] cm) from CO, ending with a WS row.

  Shape Armhole and Neck

  At armhole edge (beg of RS rows), BO 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6) sts once, then BO 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3) sts once—25 (26, 27, 28, 30, 31) sts rem. Work 1 WS row even.

  DEC ROW: (RS) K3, k2tog, knit to last 5 sts, ssk, k3—2 sts dec’d.

  Purl 1 WS row. Rep the last 2 rows 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3) more time(s)—21 (22, 21, 22, 22, 23) sts rem.

  NEXT ROW: (RS) Knit to last 5 sts, ssk, k3—1 st dec’d.

  Purl 1 WS row. Rep the last 2 rows 9 (9, 8, 8, 7, 7) more times—11 (12, 12, 13, 14, 15) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 7 (7, 7½, 7½, 8, 8)" (18 [18, 19, 19, 20, 20] cm), ending with a WS row.

  Shape Shoulder

  At armhole edge (beg of RS rows), BO 4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5) sts 2 times, then BO rem 3 (4, 4, 5, 4, 5) sts.

  Right Front

  With smaller needles, CO 26 (28, 30, 32, 34, 36) sts. Work 4 rows in garter st. Change to larger needles. Beg with a RS row, work 8 rows in St st.

  INC ROW: (RS) Knit to last 3 sts, M1, k3—1 st inc’d.

  Work 7 rows even in St st. Rep the last 8 rows 3 more times—30 (32, 34, 36, 38, 40) sts. Work even until piece measures 11 (11, 11½, 11½, 12¼, 12¼)" (28 [28, 29, 29, 31, 31] cm) from CO, ending with a RS row.

  Shape Armhole and Neck

  At armhole edge (beg of WS rows), BO 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6) sts once, then BO 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3) sts once—25 (26, 27, 28, 30, 31) sts rem.

  DEC ROW: (RS) K3, k2tog, knit to last 5 sts, ssk, k3—2 sts dec’d.

  Purl 1 WS row. Rep the last 2 rows 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3) more time(s)—21 (22, 21, 22, 22, 23) sts rem.

  NEXT ROW: (RS) K3, k2tog, knit to end—1 st dec’d.

  Purl 1 WS row. Rep the last 2 rows 9 (9, 8, 8, 7, 7) more times—11 (12, 12, 13, 14, 15) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 7 (7, 7½, 7½, 8, 8)" (18 [18, 19, 19, 20.5, 20.5] cm), ending with a RS row.

  Shape Shoulder

  At armhole edge (beg of WS rows), BO 4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5) sts 2 times, then BO rem 3 (4, 4, 5, 4, 5) sts.

  Sleeves

  With smaller needles, CO 33 (33, 35, 35, 37, 37) sts. Work 4 rows in garter st. Change to larger needles. Beg with a RS row, work 8 rows in St st.

  INC ROW: (RS) K3, M1, knit to last 3 sts, M1, k3—2 sts inc’d.

  Work 7 rows even in St st. Rep the last 8 rows 4 more times—43 (43, 45, 45, 47, 47) sts. Work even until piece measures 14" (35.5 cm) for all sizes, ending with a WS row.

  Shape Cap

  BO 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows—35 (35, 37, 37, 39, 39) sts rem.

  NEXT ROW: (RS) K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, ssk—2 sts dec’d.

  NEXT ROW: (WS) Ssp (see Glossary), purl to last 2 sts, p2tog—2 sts dec’d.

  Rep RS dec row once more, then rep RS dec row every other row (purl WS rows) 2 more times—25 (25, 27, 27, 29, 29) sts rem. Dec 1 st each end of needle every 4th row 3 times, then every row 4 times—11 (11, 13, 13, 15, 15) sts rem. BO 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows—5 (5, 7, 7, 9, 9) sts rem. BO all sts.

  Finishing

  Block pieces to finished measurements. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, use a backstitch (see Glossary) to sew fronts to back at shoulders.

  Buttonhole Band

  With smaller needles, RS facing, and beg at lower right front edge, pick up and knit 44 (44, 47, 47, 50, 50) sts evenly spaced to start of front neck shaping, 32 (32, 35, 35, 38, 38) sts to shoulder seam, 24 sts across back neck to shoulder seam, 32 (32, 35, 35, 38, 38) sts along center left front edge to start of front neck shaping, and 44 (44, 47, 47, 50, 50) sts to CO edge—176 (176, 188, 188, 200) sts total. Work 2 rows in garter st, ending with a RS row. Change to larger needles.

  BUTTONHOLE ROW: BO 132 (132, 141, 141, 150, 150) sts knitwise, *make a 4-chain button loop as foll: [insert left-hand needle into last st on right-hand needle and knit this st] 4 times, pick up last BO st with left-hand needle and knit this st again, then lift the last st of the chain over this st and off the needle, BO 4 sts; rep from * 8 more times, BO to end of row.

  Rosettes (make 3)

  With smaller needles, CO 112 sts. Work short-rows (see Glossary) as foll:

  ROW 1: (RS) Knit.

  ROW 2: (WS) K2, [k1, return this st to left-hand needle, pass the next 8 sts on left-hand needle over this st and off needle, knit the first st again, k2] 10 times—32 sts rem.

  ROW 3: K24, wrap next st, turn work.

  ROW 4: Knit to end.

  ROW 5: K16, wrap next st, turn work.

  ROW 6: Knit to end.

  ROW 7: K8, wrap next st, turn work.

  ROW 8: Knit to end.

  Cut yarn, thread tail through sts on needle, pull tight to create a rosette, and secure with a few stitches. Pin rosettes as desired on left front of garment and sew in place with yarn threaded on a tapestry needle. Sew a large mother-of-pearl button in the center of each flower.

  In the Details

  This chapter showcases projects that use combinations of the techniques that will capture your imagination and provide creative ideas for your own embellishment endeavors. Poppy, worked in two colorways, shows how different embellishments can transform a simple beanie. Madeleine, a large blanket-style shawl, makes use of duplicate-stitch lettering, knitted flowers, and appliqué. An
allover beaded pattern with edge details gives an elegant look to the simple-to-knit Nina scarf. Ivy, a purse with a striped textured background, is made special with ribbons, rosettes, buttons, and pom-poms. Knitted flowers and blossom-shaped buttons add texture and interest to the elegant April bolero, which is topped off with a big ribbon bow. Marigold uses the charms from a broken bracelet to add interest to a knitted ruffle edging.

  Poppy

  I’ve shown this simple beanie pattern two ways—one is knitted in subtle stripes (inspired by an antique brooch) and embellished with small flowers, sequins, and beads; the other is knitted in just two shades and embellished with a large rosette (Two-Color Hat) for a stunning statement. A ribbon threaded through eyelets in the edging adds a pretty accent while preventing the hat from stretching. The embellishment possibilities are endless—be inspired by a found object or a gift from a loved one.